A grand adventure part 5 – Buses, trains and automobiles

Day 6
Back at the station, all seemed to be in order, though there were hardly any other passengers waiting. We realised we would be the only ones in ‘Executive’ class – the equivalent of first class, which for us in Bolivianos was cheap, and would mean we’d get more comfortable, fully reclinable seats, plus blankets and pillows. Excited at the prospect of a civilised journey at last, we settled down contentedly in our seats to watch the film showing on the carriage’s television. But then the train began to move, and it became apparent it wasn’t going to be all that peaceful as trains we know and love. The narrow-gauge line meant the shallow rails could easily be strewn with rocks and debris from the mountainsides, so the resulting noise resembled travelling in a metal box being constantly pelted with a hammer. Luckily, I was so exhausted I passed out for most of the night.

Inside the Executive class carriage on the Expreso del Sur train, Bolivia

Inside the Executive class carriage on the Expreso del Sur train, Bolivia

We were woken abruptly at around 6.30 in the morning by the militant train assistant who yanked the pillows and blankets off us. Annoyed, I hoped it at least meant he was going to bring round some breakfast, but no, we had arrived in Oruro – some six hours earlier we were expecting!

The Expreso del Sur train in Oruro's station at 6am

The Expreso del Sur train after arriving in Oruro’s station at 6.30am

Bleary-eyed, we wandered out into Oruro in search of breakfast. We intended to stay at least a night here to catch up on sleep and sanity, and then move straight through La Paz and on to Cusco in one swoop the next day. However, after walking the length and breadth of the bleak, former mining town to find not one shop or café open, we decided the three-hour bus to La Paz was preferable and made for the bus terminal.

Here, we found a small café serving tea and bread, and then we were ready to get our bus tickets for La Paz. However, now all the buses had disappeared and the ticket offices were all closed. Thinking it was just the weird Bolivian town’s way, we redirected our search to the road outside and got talking to some people – road blocks were being set up around the town as part of a protest – no buses would be able to leave Oruro for the rest of today!

Now go to part 6!

To plan your rail journey in Bolivia, go to the Empresa Ferroviaria Andina (FCA) website, and ask plenty of locals!

See my expert travel tips for Bolivia.

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A grand adventure part 4 – Abandoned in Atocha

As the bus drove off from Atocha in a cloud of dust, we asked directions to the train station. People happily gave them, with none of the sucking of teeth or shaking of heads we received in Villazon, so maybe, just maybe, there was hope!

The little, almost silent mining town of Atocha didn’t much look like it held a railway station, but sure enough, just behind the plaza, there it was – and there was the Expreso del Sur train waiting! And there was the ticket office open! We bought our tickets with a shaken mixture of disbelief and relief. We had finally caught up with the train!

Expreso del Sur train in Atocha station

Expreso del Sur train in Atocha station

After leaving our luggage, we headed back down to the plaza for a, by now, very late lunch. In this odd, isolated place we were surprised to find a café-bar with a full menu and were soon happily tucking into beef and chips.

Now there were a few hours to kill before the train left at 9.45 that night. We wandered round the town with everyone staring at us intruigedly – yes, it seems no other tourists come here in crazy pursuit of trains like us.

A plane monument in Atocha's main plaza (don't know why)

A plane monument in Atocha’s main plaza (don’t know why)

The sights were few and dull: an ominous-looking grey quarry dominated one side of the town, while along the river bank were dumped the shells of old cars. We passed some boys amusing themselves by cycling through a big muddy puddle. We wondered how a public toilet had ended up being donated to the town by the European Union. Then we were back at the railway tracks. Lots of people were walking across and up and down them determinedly – where they were going to or from, we couldn’t quite fathom. All we knew is we had nothing left to do, so we went to the market hall for dinner. As we’d only eaten about 45 minutes ago, we weren’t very hungry, so we managed to drag the meal out over the next two hours.

Our third thunderstorm in as many days rolled in and we sat listening to the stereo-sound claps of thunder and the torrential rain clattering on the market hall roof. Then I realised – what if more of the railway tracks get damaged and the train can’t leave Atocha either?!!

Atocha train station

Atocha train station

Now go to part 5! And have you seen parts one, two and three?

See my expert travel tips for Bolivia.